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Structure of ocean basins; physical properties of seawater and the equation of state; heat, salt, freshwater budgets; tidal potentials; Coriolis effect and geostrophic balance; major current systems and water masses; mixing, stirring in the ocean; simple waves, modern experimental methods.

Introduction to geophysical fluid dynamics. An overview of fluids in geophysics with emphasis on the oceans. A non-rigorous development of the equations of motion with examples drawn from oceanography and solid earth geophysics.

Structure of ocean basins; physical properties of seawater and the equation of state; heat, salt, freshwater budgets; tidal potentials; Coriolis effect and geostrophic balance; major current systems and water masses; mixing, stirring in the ocean; simple waves, modern experimental methods.

Wave kinematics: phase and group velocity dispersion; governing equations. Waves in a homogeneous ocean: the Laplace Tidal Equations, including long gravity waves, Sverdrup-Poincare waves, coastal Kelvin waves, topographic Rossby waves, and planetary Rossby waves. Waves in a density-stratified ocean: equivalent depth and the vertical and horizontal structure equations; internal inertia-gravity waves, including WKBJ scaling for variations in stratification, consistency and amplitude-energy relations, reflection properties, and Garrett-Munk synthesis; wind forcing; and equatorial waves.

The principal instruments and experimental methods of modern Physical Oceanography. Devices and systems to measure pressure, temperature, electrical conductivity, sea state and velocity will be discussed in the classroom, and complete systems will be examined/operated in the laboratory.

This course is offered together with GPHYS 404 covering the same subjects but requiring additional work in the form of more advanced research-oriented problems and/or a final report directed at extending the subject matter to original research.

Mixing is recognized as one of the major ocean processes that must be accurately parameterized in models before accurate climate predictions are possible. Consequently, the CLIVAR program incorporates coupled process experiments and model studies to address major mixing issues relevant to climate.

Observed patterns of currents, mixing and stratification from deep fjords to shallow coastal plain estuaries. Physical understanding of basic processes, such as tides, wind stress, topographic effects on turbulence, sill hydraulics, and exchange flow. Vertical mixing and residence times important to biological and pollution studies.

The upper ocean—including the surface mixed-layer, upper pycnocline and euphotic zone—mediates the transfer of momentum, heat, water and gases between the atmosphere and ocean. It is the site of water-mass production as well as most ocean biological production. Thus understanding of upper-ocean processes is vital to a wide range of oceanographic problems.

Internal waves interact with inhomogeneities in the ocean that arise from bottom topography, depth-varying buoyancy frequency, latitude-varying Coriolois frequency, geostrophic flow, and other internal waves. Propagation of internal waves in a nonuniform environment will be considered from the point of view of WKB ray tracing. The focus will be on developing tools and approaches that are also applicable to other wave phenomena.

The goal of this class is to develop a basic understanding of sound through examining: 1) the use of acoustics as a tool in oceanographic instrumentation, 2( the use of acoustics in the study of ocean processes, and 3) some current issues in ocean acoustics research.

No previous acoustics knowledge is assumed but previous study of waves in other contexts (ocean surface waves, internal waves, etc) may be a small advantage. After introduction into the aspects of acoustic waves of most use to the class curriculum, the remaining nine weeks will examine acoustics in the context of ocean instrumentation and issues. Emphasis will be given to examining specific examples (including recent experiments)of using acoustics both as a tool and to examine ocean processes.

Starting with the simplest system (a single hydrophone),each week will include the examination of a different inversion from which oceanographic information is obtained via acoustics. The final week will be an open forum in which an initial design is attempted for measuring an ocean process (carrying out an inversion) determined from a potential list put forth by students.